BOOK/A TABLE - Hector's Chicken Enchiladas

In The Vile Village, the seventh book from Lemony Snicket’s A Series of Unfortunate Events, those woebegone Beaudelaire children encounter Hector, an enchilada-loving boy who wishes to make his favorite bubbling cheesy dish for them. He says, “How about chicken enchiladas? That’s a Mexican dish consisting of corn tortillas rolled around a chicken filling, covered with melted cheese and a special sauce I learned from my second-grade teacher.” 

Unlike Hector, I had no such teacher to inspire any sort of enchilada creation. Rather, I spied a recipe in The New York Times just the other day and set to work myself. I have little preamble here except to say that Rick Martinez’s gooey enchiladas were excellent enough to make Hector proud—and as proof, my husband asked that they be put on the list of must-make-agains.

Trader Joe’s helped with much of this: instead of buying a rotisserie chicken, we bought a package of roasted chicken strips and found our delicious, perfectly spicy enchilada sauce there, as well as our corn tortillas and vegetables. 

Although the recipe doesn’t suggest it, use any of the remaining tomato and onion mixture to top your enchiladas before serving!

Chicken Enchiladas
By Rick Martínez
Yield:6 servings

Ingredients
¼ cup vegetable oil

12 (6-inch) corn tortillas
½ medium white onion, chopped
1 medium poblano or green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 large tomatoes, cored and finely chopped
Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
2 cups cooked shredded chicken (from a roast chicken or rotisserie chicken)
2 ½ cups enchilada sauce or from 2 (10-ounce) cans
12 ounces (3 cups) sharp cheddar, shredded
Pico de gallo, for serving (optional)

Preparation
Step 1
Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Using 2 tablespoons of the oil, lightly brush both sides of each tortilla. Heat a large skillet or griddle over medium-high and, working in batches, cook tortillas until lightly browned and just starting to crisp but still pliable, 45 seconds to 1 minute per side. (This will prevent the tortillas from completely falling apart while cooking.) Set aside.

Step 2
Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a large skillet over medium-high and cook onion, poblano, garlic, tomatoes and juices, and 1 teaspoon salt, stirring and scraping up any browned bits, until most of the liquid has evaporated and tomatoes begin to stick to the skillet, 9 to 11 minutes. Stir in chicken, ½ cup enchilada sauce and ½ teaspoon salt until combined and just warmed through; remove from heat. Taste and season with additional salt, if necessary.

Step 3
Pour ½ cup enchilada sauce into a 9-by-13-inch baking dish, spreading to cover the bottom. Working one at a time, arrange a scant ¼ cup of chicken down the center of the tortilla, roll to secure the filling and place seam side down in the baking dish. Repeat with remaining tortillas and chicken, making sure they’re nestled right up against each other.

Step 4
Pour the remaining enchilada sauce over the tortillas, then scatter cheese on top. Bake until the sauce is bubbling and the cheese is just beginning to brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve warm topped with pico de gallo, if desired. For leftovers, divide remaining enchiladas into portions of 2 or 3; wrap each portion tightly in plastic wrap or place in a freezer bag, squeeze out the air, seal and freeze for up to 3 months.

 

BOOK/A TABLE - Duck...Soup?

During a recent trip to Nashville, I stopped into Bits & Pieces Antique Boutique where I happened upon a copy of Cherry Ames, Camp Nurse by Helen Wells. I grabbed it off the shelf straightaway and while ringing up the sale, the cashier asked me, “What’s the deal with this Cherry Ames, anyway?” 

“Well...” I leaned in and proceeded to tell her all about the utterly charming (and often hilarious) series.

Much like Nancy Drew, Cherry solves mysteries. But unlike the titian-haired teen detective, young Cherry is a rosy brunette and a nurse. Her profession leads her to be installed in any number of absurd situations (in over 20 books written between 1943-1968), where she must save the day, while applying cold compresses, administering tinctures, or taking temperatures. 

Rest Home Nurse, Mountaineer Nurse, Dude Ranch Nurse, and Companion Nurse are all compelling titles, but among those I’ve read, my favorite is Cherry Ames, Department Store Nurse. Cherry has moved on to working in the infirmary of Thomas and Parke’s, a New York department store—only to discover someone has pinched a rose diamond necklace from Mrs. Julian on the antiques floor. 

Cherry goes home to Hilton, Illinois for a visit and is necessarily grilled: “During the balance of dinner, Cherry’s mother kept the questions to what nursing in a department store was like.”

It’s not really clear what the Ames’s were eating on their best china, but my thoughts went to cherries and the marvelous Fruitful cookbook by Brian Nicholson and Sarah Huck, which features “four seasons of fresh fruit recipes.” I met the authors ten years ago at their launch party and I’ve particularly enjoyed returning to this cookbook every summer. As we are at a point when cherries are at their most flavorful, I wanted to include a recipe for smoked duck toasts (from Fruitful) and a chilled soup featuring the garnet-colored gems, in honor of Cherry Ames.  

Fresh is usually the best way to go, however for both of these recipes jars of cherries from Trader Joe’s might be preferable!

Smoked Duck and Cherry Confit Toasts
Adapted from Fruitful

Makes 4 to 6 servings
My suggestions in italics

Ingredients
2 tbs unsalted butter
1 small shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 tsp finely chopped rosemary
12 oz sweet cherries, pitted (2 cups)/1 16.2 oz jar pitted Amarena cherries from Trader Joe’s
1 tb granulated sugar
2 tbs brandy
1/4 tsp sherry vinegar, plus more to taste
Pinch fine sea salt
8 (1/2-inch thick) slices rye bread (consider slicing into strips to make appetizers for a small group instead)
Extra-virgin olive oil
2 tbs whole-grain mustard (a nice Dijon is also good)
1 pound smoked duck breast, thinly sliced (try chopped smoked ham or cured sausage if duck is scarce)
1 cup torn arugula leaves (or baby/micro arugula)

Method
Melt the butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook until soft and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in the rosemary and cook for 30 seconds. Add the cherries and sugar and cook, stirring frequently, until cherries are caramelized, about 5 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons of water. Cook, breaking up the cherries with a spoon, until the mixture bubbles and begins to thicken. Add the brandy and cook until cherries are soft and saucy. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the vinegar and salt. Set the compote aside to cool. (This can be made ahead of time and stored in the fridge for about a week.)

Preheat the broiler. Arrange the bread slices on a baking sheet and drizzle the tops with oil. Place the bread under the broiler until it is lightly toasted, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Slather one side of each toasted bread slice with mustard. Top each toast with sliced duck, a spoonful of compote, and a small handful of arugula. Serve immediately.

On to soup! I made this thrilling pink soup years ago, but only recently realized I neglected to post the recipe for it, so here you go. 

“This Hungarian dish is a dessert disguised as a soup. Morello cherries in light syrup, like the one’s sold at Trader Joe’s stores, are ideal.”

Hungarian Chilled Cherry Soup aka Meggyleves
Adapted from Saveur

My comments in italics

Serves 4-6

Ingredients
2 (24 oz) jars of pitted sour cherries (preferably morellos), with their juice (Alternatively, you may use 1 3/4 lbs. fresh bing cherries, stemmed and pitted, or 1 1/2 lbs. frozen bing cherries with 2 3/4 cups sour or regular cherry juice.) OR about 2 16.2 oz jars of Trader Joe’s Amarena cherries 
1⁄2 tsp kosher salt
1 stick cinnamon
1 slice (1/2"-thick) lemon
1 (8 oz) container sour cream

STEP 1
Add cherries, with their juice, to a 4-quart saucepan. Add salt, cinnamon stick, and lemon. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until cherries are soft, about 5 minutes.

STEP 2
In a small bowl, whisk together sour cream and 1⁄4 cup of hot cherry liquid from pan. Remove pan from heat; stir in sour cream mixture. Chill the soup and serve.

Making Mahi Mahi

The Post-It I left on the counter when Baby and I crossed paths was inscribed simply, "Would you like mahi mahi for dinner tonight? With lemon, parsley, garlic and crushed olives that we already have?" When I returned home, I saw he had written over it in a lime-green Sharpie pen, "YES!"

Terribly easy and boy, was it good!

Start with heating up a 350 degree oven. The frozen, vacuum-sealed mahi mahi (two decent servings) from Trader Joe's reclined for a while in the refrigerator for much of the day in anticipation and was quickly thawed in warm water before being placed in an enamel lined Le Creuset tarte tatin pan to rest and acknowledge the salt and pepper dashed on both sides.

Meanwhile, a fistful of mixed olives went into a skillet with garlic and olive oil over medium heat and chatted until they'd softened up after a fine simmer; about 15 minutes or so.

 

More pepper went into this. I threw parsley to wilt on top and tossed the whole thing about as I gently browned the mahi mahi briefly in a little butter and olive oil over medium heat, flipping once. I deglazed by adding about a half cup of bouillon. The olive, garlic and parsley mixture went into the tarte tatin pan and the whole thing went into the oven until cooked to our preferred doneness. It's all very fast work; really only a few minutes, until you smell that it's ready to come to the table. Once out of the oven, let it sit for a moment or two with a judicious spray of lemon which enhances the vibrant finished fish so it may ring the alarum bell to announce, "Dinner is served!" Green beans and a pillow of mashed potatoes are a perfect accompaniment, as is a dry Riesling.

Making Mahi Mahi...mmm...Do enjoy!

Date Night - Whole Grain Pasta with Shrimp

I have a small confession to make. On Monday nights, Baby and I cross the hall and watch The Bachelor with our neighbors. The Mrs. is completed obsessed with the show and insists on total silence during it but her Mr. couldn't care less, even though he still watches. Baby and I however just like getting together with our friends to witness the witless parade of mewling girls fawning over the ideal, hopeful husband-to-be. There is a certain escapist sense about it, tuning in for the two whole hours every week, anticipating who will receive a rose--and who will be most grievously jilted.

Sometimes the lot of us will order in sushi together or just eat on our own before sitting down to watch. This week I offered to cook, as we had a pound of Colossal Shrimp from Trader Joe's tucked away in the freezer next to some bacon. With some sturdy whole grain spaghetti, a touch of white wine from a recently opened bottle, a few other ingredients and a little ingenuity, I made a great meal that easily satisfied four and certainly deserved a rose!

P.S. Speaking of romance and since love is in the air, this recipe could be easily reduced for just two--an ideal meal to create an intimate Valentine's Day dinner--served with a celebratory bottle of wine, perhaps. It's very quick to make, which leaves time for...other investments.

Whole Grain Pasta with Shrimp
Ingredients
1/4 lb bacon, cut into roughly 3" strips (I used Oscar Mayer Hardwood Smoked--delicious!)
6 or so cloves of garlic, coarsely chopped
A big splash of white wine 
1 lb deveined, tailed thawed shrimp, the bigger the better
1 lb whole grain pasta
2 TB anchovy paste 
2-3 TB butter
2-3TB olive oil, the best you can find
1 TB Lemon rock salt, or Kosher salt
Fresh cracked pepper
Grated Parmesan cheese

Method
Fill a large pot with water and get it simmering, ready to boil quickly. On medium high heat, start cooking the bacon in a frying pan, and grind your pepper over it with abandon, flipping occasionally until nicely browned and peppery on both sides. Remove with tongs and place on a plate lined with two paper towels. Drain about half of the fat and toss in the garlic. The pan will be hot, so douse the almost immediately with a judicious splash of wine (about 1/2 cup) and remove from heat. Stir in a TB of the anchovy paste to your froth and gently simmer on low heat for a few minutes and secure the sauce in a vessel that can stand up to heat. Bring your water to a full boil, add salt and pasta and cook for 7-8 minutes. Strain when done to your liking. As the boiling process transpires, use your frying pan again for the shrimp. Melt butter, add olive oil and the other TB of anchovy paste before adding the shrimp. The shrimp cooks quickly, about 3 minutes per side. While the shrimp turns a blithely orange-pink on both sides and has become just opaque (do not overcook!), strain your pasta, which should be done by now and place into a large bowl. Toss with the garlicky-anchovy-wine froth. Incorporate your cooked shrimp evenly along with the bubbly sauce in which it has been sauteed, crumble the bacon into the mix with lots of Parmesan cheese and more cracked pepper, if you like.

Behold the bubbling bacon below--which could hardly hold still to take a decent picture!