BOOK/A TABLE - A Study in Scarlet...Punch?

 

In anticipation of Hallowe’en, I’ll be featuring a few frightening reads or recipes (or both!) all this month—kicking things off with a tribute to that celebrant of Gothic New England, Nathaniel Hawthorne, and his novel The Scarlet Letter (which features at least one witch, in the form of Mistress Hibbins).

I have to admit the bookseller looked at me kinda funny when I asked if he carried the book.

“Hawthorne?” he asked, arching an eyebrow. Not because he was unsure of the author, but rather he seemed to be asking, “Still?”

“I know...” I nodded, trailing off. “I haven’t read The Scarlet Letter since high school.” 

But I had been thinking about it because there was a recent question on Jeopardy asking which novel has a scene featuring a falling meteor? I don’t know how I remembered this at all, but I felt there was a meteor somewhere in The Scarlet Letter, wasn’t there? 

Turns out, Hawthorne’s novel wasn’t the answer Jeopardy was looking for (I think they wanted Paradise Lost), but re-reading it, sure enough there is a scene on the scaffolding where Arthur Dimmesdale and Hester Prynne clutch each other under a shooting meteor whose trail in the celestial skies may or may not resemble the letter A.

 

Anyway...I feel Hester didn’t get a fair shake in The Scarlet Letter. So let’s shake up a cocktail in tribute to the old gal, yes?

The Spooky Spiced Scarlet cocktail (or perhaps a Prynne Punch?) is a blood-red Halloween drink that combines Bacardi Gold rum with a homemade cinnamon spice syrup, fresh pomegranate juice, and cranberry juice. Created by Rich Hunt and Alba Huerta for Jamie’s World, the recipe involves stirring these ingredients with ice and garnishing with a lime wedge for a tart contrast.

Spooky Spiced Scarlet Cocktail

Ingredients
50 ml (about 1.7 oz) of Bacardi Gold Rum (or Ritual Zero Proof alcohol-free rum)
3 tablespoons of homemade cinnamon spice syrup
50 ml (about 1.7 oz) of fresh pomegranate juice
50 ml (about 1.7 oz) of cranberry juice
Ice cubes
Lime wedge for garnish

Instructions
In a cocktail shaker, combine the Bacardi Gold rum, homemade cinnamon spice syrup, fresh pomegranate juice, and cranberry juice.

Add ice cubes to the shaker.

Stir the mixture well until it is thoroughly combined and chilled.
Strain the cocktail into a glass filled with fresh ice.
Garnish with a lime wedge to add a splash of color and serve to your best...boo.

BOOK/A TABLE - This Applesauce Rules!

                   

A Prayer for Owen Meany* by John Irving was the first book that ever made me cry. Books had been making people cry for years, of course, but I never quite understood it growing up. Crying during a movie made more sense to me, the passivity of watching the drama unfold, you know? Reading is active—if distracted, you turn away, the reel jams, the celluloid melts, the story stops! Hardly a time for tears. Oh, the impatience of youth!

But when I read the extraordinary A Prayer for Owen Meany, I finally understood. Oh, the tears fell down like autumn windfall apples! 

I suppose it wasn’t surprising then that I cried again over Irving’s The Cider House Rules only a few months ago. The story centers on events surrounding an orphanage and hospital in the fictional town of St. Cloud’s in Maine (my homeland). There, women deliver unwanted babies (those ‘Princes of Maine’; those ‘Kings of New England’) or the women themselves are delivered from unwanted pregnancies. The book deliberately parallels David Copperfield as we follow Homer Wells’s journey—and indeed wonder whether or not this particular orphan will become the hero of his own life. 

There are also many pages devoted to apples, their cultivation (and rules of operating the cider house), as you might well imagine. But here, let’s start with the basics. Applesauce!

Following the loose instructions torn out of an old Bon Appétit, I have made Carla Lalli Music’s practically effortless recipe for perfect applesauce many times. She says, “As the apples transform, their skins surrender tannins and color to the sauce, and the fruit steams in its own juices, concentrating the flavors as the liquid simmers.” Doesn’t that sound just fantastic? 

And as Homer (our Prince of Maine and King of New England) observes, “...people will always eat apples...it must be a nice life.”

Applesauce
Adapted from a recipe by Carla Lalli Music, featured in Bon Appétit

Ingredients
A few apples; any kind that suits your fancy
A stick of cinnamon
Juice from 1 lemon
A scraped-out vanilla bean (or 1 tsp vanilla extract)

Method
Halve the apples and add them to sturdy pot (enamel Le Creuset pots are great) with all the ingredients on medium-low. Add a 1/4 cup of water and let them be. When the rich aromas begin filling the kitchen, stir your apples to make sure they aren’t sticking—if they are, add a little more water.

The total simmering time should be about 45 minutes to yield a rosy, tender flesh. Transfer your batch to a food mill to catch any seeds or stems.

Serve warm. Or chilled!

*(For a deeper dive into A Prayer for Owen Meany, check out Fifth Business by Robertson Davies—Irving based Owen Meany on it.)

COOKBOOK/A TABLE - Plant-Based Cornbread

In the 1989 Batman movie, Jack Nicholson’s Joker gleefully declared, “This town needs an enema!” As remakes often reflect the current climate of the culture, I can only imagine a new version of the film where The Joker might instead declare, “The entire world needs an enema!”

So think globally, but act locally, right? With that buoyant expression in mind, I offer a solution to our constipated world—a plant-based corn bread that I find to be most cleansing. (The recipe calls for jalapeños but I’m not going there.)

Jessica Murnane wrote the cookbook One Part Plant: A Simple Guide to Eating Real, One Meal at a Time to combat her chronic, painful endometriosis. After teaching herself how to cook, she changed her diet to incorporate whole plant-based meals into her daily life with life-changing results. The recipe for jalapeño cornbread is just one of many recipes resulting from her efforts in the kitchen while she created the book she wished she’d had during her personal struggle.

The struggle is real—everywhere. But don’t give up. In the meantime, this cornbread is delicious!

Jalapeño Cornbread
Adapted from One Part Plant by Jessica Murnane https://www.jessicamurnane.com/one-part-plant
Makes 6 to 8 servings

Ingredients
1 cup unsweetened almond milk
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon flax meal
3 tablespoons water
1 cup medium grind cornmeal
Half cup almond meal
Half cup brown rice flour
2 teaspoons aluminum free baking powder
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 cup real Maple syrup
2 jalapeños seeded and diced
3 tablespoons olive oil
Raw honey or real maple syrup

Method
Preheat the oven to 400°. Grease an 8 inch square pan or line it with parchment paper.

Next line in a small bowl, combine the almond milk and apple cider vinegar. In another small bowl, make a flax egg: flax meal and water together. Set both the almond milk mixture and the flax egg aside and let them sit for at least 10 minutes.

Next line in a large bowl, mix the cornmeal, almond meal, rice flour, baking powder, installed together. Add the almond milk mixture, flax egg, maple syrup, and half of the jalapeño slices. Stir to combine, but do not over stir. Add the olive oil and give it a few more stirs.

Pour the batter into your prepared pan. Spread the remaining jalapeños on top. Bake for 20 minutes or until a fork or toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let it cool for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

Thanks to jessicainthekitchen.com for the photo!

Like Buttah!

I had almost a full bottle of buttermilk left over after making my Fried Chicken Salad and still had butterbeans on my mind after my D.C. friend wrote me about the Brunswick Stew he had concocted. 

So, I searched keywords buttermilk and butterbeans, et voilà, I found this delightful recipe for Buttermilk White Beans with Eggs & Greens. 

As a shortcut, I opted for canned butterbeans, although I realize many folks would balk at the idea of not using dried. But it was a weeknight and I couldn’t linger as long in the kitchen as I might have liked, so what the hell—my creamy buttermilk butterbeans were quick and delicious. With the tender greens, a good, fruity olive oil and rich, liquid gold yolks it was all just like buttah, but I did feel the proposed preparation needed a little clarity: my comments below are in italics.

And I would be completely remiss if I didn’t mention my all-time favorite band The B-52’s and their paean to the virtues of the butterbean in the fabulously fun song, Butterbean! 

*BONUS* Click here for a recipe for Italian Style Soba Noodles that band member Fred Schneider was gracious enough to share on Evenings with Peter.

Buttermilk White Beans with Eggs & Greens
Food52.com
Ingredients
Extra-virgin olive oil (or unsalted butter). Use a really good oil for this.
5 sprigs thyme
1 yellow onion, sliced thinly
10 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 pound dried white beans (such as cannellini, gigante, or great northern) Or two 15.5 oz. cans of butterbeans!
2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
2 cups buttermilk
1 bunch (10 leaves) hearty greens (such as kale, chard, or rapini), cut into ribbons. Rainbow chard worked very nicely. To make ribbons, strip the leaves of their stems, roll up several stacked leaves like a cigar and slice them on the bias. 
1/4 teaspoon chile flakes (optional)
1/2 cup white wine
4 large eggs
Freshly ground black pepper

Directions
Step 1
In a medium to large saucepan, heat several glugs of olive oil or knobs of butter over medium heat. Add the thyme sprigs and fry until fragrant and the leaves have stopped making the popping sound, about 1 minute. Add the onion and half the garlic, then reduce the heat to low and sweat until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the beans and enough water to cover by 2 to 3 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook until the beans are completely tender and creamy, and the water is mostly absorbed. This should take 45 to 75 minutes, depending on the variety and age. This goes much quicker with canned beans, about 10-15 minutes—and don’t rinse; add bean juice to the pan.

Step 2
When they’re done, remove the beans from the heat and add the rest of the garlic, the salt, and buttermilk. Stir to combine, cover, transfer to the fridge, then allow the beans to cool in the buttermilk—at least 30 minutes, but ideally overnight.

Step 3
Before serving, remove the sprigs of thyme (don’t worry if some leaves break up into the broth) and gently warm the beans over low heat. When the beans are warm, taste and adjust the seasoning as desired. Remember the beans will take some time to warm up. Allow for that, then move on to Step 4, which goes very quickly.. 

Step 4
In a large frying pan, heat a glug of olive oil over high heat until almost smoking, then add the greens and a big pinch of salt. Sautée the greens until they are bright in color and starting to soften. Add the white wine and chile flakes (if using) and allow the wine to evaporate by half.

Step 5
Reduce the heat to medium and make four divots in the greens. Drizzle more olive oil into the greens and crack an egg into each divot. Season the eggs with salt and black pepper. Cover the pan with a lid to steam the eggs—5 to 6 minutes, checking frequently toward the end so they don’t overcook. Poke with spoon to check that the white are firm. 

Step 6
Dish the beans into serving bowls. Scoop a nest of greens and an egg from the pan and nestle on top of the beans. Drizzle with a bit more olive oil and serve on its own, or with a thick slice of toast.

A Friend Writes...Brunswick Stew!

 

In a fit of culinary pique laced with a dash of nostalgia, my D.C. correspondent (otherwise known as my old pal of 30 years) set to work in the kitchen and emailed me about his exploits!

“I’m making Brunswick Stew tonight and cornbread. (My Southern childhood came calling yesterday.) This dish used to confuse me growing up because we had a neighbor from Emporia, Virginia who made something similar called Chicken Muddle. Even though some folks also called it Brunswick Stew, our neighbor insisted that was something a little different—you eat Brunswick Stew with a spoon and Chicken Muddle with a fork.

“I looked at both of the recipes. They are not that different, just the thickness. Call it whatever you want—I’ve called it satisfying and delicious for years!”

So then, here’s a recipe for Brunswick Stew...or Virginia Chicken Muddle: 

Ingredients
1 whole chicken (around 3-4 lbs)
Several quarts water or enough to cover the chicken
1 quart butter beans, canned and drained (or fresh if in season)
1 quart canned whole or crushed tomatoes (plus their juices)
1 quart chopped potatoes
1 quart or 1 pint onions, chopped (depending on preference)
1 pint corn, canned or fresh
1 pound fatback or smoked meat (optional, for added flavor)
1-2 sleeves saltine crackers, crushed (for thickening)
Salt, pepper (black and red), and sugar to taste
Optional: Paprika, poultry seasoning, hot sauce

Instructions
Boil the Chicken: In a large iron pot, place the whole chicken and cover it with water. Boil until the chicken is tender and the meat easily separates from the bones.

Shred the Chicken: Remove the chicken from the pot and let it cool. Shred the meat, discarding the bones and skin.

Add Vegetables: To the pot with the broth, add the butter beans, tomatoes, chopped potatoes, and onions. If using fatback or smoked meat, fry it until the fat is rendered, cut it into pieces, and add it to the pot along with the fat.

Simmer and Stir: Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for several hours, stirring frequently to prevent sticking and to ensure all ingredients break down and blend together. The goal is for the ingredients to almost melt into a thick, hearty stew.

Thicken and Season: When the muddle reaches the desired thickness, add the corn and stir. Add crushed crackers to thicken the stew further, if needed. Season generously with salt, black pepper, red pepper, and a little sugar to taste. You can also add other desired seasonings, like paprika or poultry seasoning, at this stage.

Serve: Serve the Virginia chicken muddle hot, with additional crackers and hot sauce on the side if desired.

Sea Bass with Cockles and Leek Broth

Summer may be nearing its end, but the good news is now that we’ve returned to ‘R’ months, we can at least resume our consumption of oysters, clams, and other shellfish with impunity (if you believe the old wives’ tale)!

This simply elegant dish is suitably summery enough to still share with friends on your patio, city rooftop oasis, or even as a fond farewell while closing up your vacation home. And although the original recipe called for springtime garlic scapes, I think most any allium-based broth would work this time of year, such as leeks or a mixture of garlic and scallion greens. If cockles aren’t readily available, see if your fishmonger can assist you in finding them—the sweet, briny devils are well worth the search.

And do enjoy!

Sea Bass with Cockles and Leek Broth
Ingredients
4-8 to 10 oz striped bass fillets or similar white fish
2 lbs cockles
One bunch scapes (or leeks), sliced
Half cup dry white wine
Half bunch asparagus
5 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper

Method
Prep your seafood: Rinse cockles in cold water to wash away any sand. Pat dry sea bass fillets with paper towels, cut in half, and season with salt and pepper.

Blanch asparagus in boiling salted water for 30 seconds. Drain and chill.

In the dutch oven or large sauté pan, over medium heat, add olive oil and scapes (or leeks). Sauté for a minute. Nestle fish in pan and add cockles. Pour the white wine into the pan and cover.

After a few minutes, turn heat down to low and simmer for a total of 10 minutes, shaking pan occasionally. Carefully fold in asparagus and allow to rest covered for a minute.

Remove fillets and place in a large serving platter. Arrange cockles and vegetables on platter and add broth from pan to the platter.

Steamed Sweet Potatoes with Tahini

I had the pleasure of discovering Zou Zou’s delicious roasted sweet potato with miso butter-tahini and Egyptian dukkah when I happened to stop by the chic Mediterranean restaurant for a quick bite. It was such a taste sensation, with exotic flavors bursting out of its skin. Although relegated to a side on the menu, I felt this uber root tuber creation could have been brought to the fore! 

When New York Times Cooking posted the following recipe for sweet potatoes with tahini butter, I hastened to make it straightaway—the list of ingredients brought me right back to my experience at Zou Zou. Carla Lalli Music, the creator of this dish, insists upon steaming the sweet potatoes however, instead of roasting them. She suggests that steaming imparts a flavor roasting can’t compete with and notes that the process also makes your sweet potatoes as fluffy as clouds.

Try the method, taste for yourself, and do enjoy!

Sweet Potatoes with Tahini Butter
Recipe from Carla Lalli Music
Adapted by Samin Nosrat

Ingredients
Yield:4 to 6 servings

2½ pounds sweet potatoes of any color (about 4 medium), washed
6 tablespoons unsalted butter (¾ stick), at room temperature
¼ cup well-stirred tahini
2 to 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice, plus lime wedges, for serving
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 clove garlic, finely grated or pounded smooth with a pinch of salt
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds
Flaky sea salt, for serving

Preparation
Step 1
Bring a few inches of water to a boil in a medium pot fitted with a steamer basket or footed colander. Place sweet potatoes in the steamer. Cover, reduce heat to medium and steam until potatoes are completely tender, 35 to 40 minutes. (Use a skewer or paring knife to check for doneness; the potatoes should be soft all the way through.)

Step 2
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk butter, tahini, lime juice, soy sauce, sesame oil and garlic until smooth. It might seem as if the butter and liquids will never fully combine, but they will — just keep stirring! Taste, and adjust seasoning with salt, pepper and more lime juice as needed.

Step 3
Set a small pan over medium heat. Toast the sesame seeds, swirling the pan continuously, until seeds are golden. They’ll give off some oil and start to clump together, so if needed, stir with a wooden spoon to keep them moving so that they toast evenly. They’ll turn a nice deep-golden shade just as they dry off a bit, about 4 minutes. Transfer seeds to a small bowl to prevent them from overcooking.

Step 4
When the sweet potatoes are tender, use tongs to transfer them to a large plate or platter. When they are just cool enough to handle, split potatoes in half lengthwise, and season with flaky salt. Spread tahini butter generously onto the flesh, and top with sesame seeds. Serve immediately with lime wedges.