Sardi’s looks lovely this time of year, don’t you think? The old dame of the theater district was closed for quite some time after the pandemic and I was thrilled to finally return after so long and catch the bustling restaurant while still gussied up in all its holiday splendor.
When I was a theatrical agent representing actors, I often went to Sardi’s before the opening of a Broadway show—and sometimes my associates and I would sneak back in during intermission to grab a drink at the bar.
On this visit, the memories collected around me as my friends and I were ushered to our corner banquette, where we were flanked by caricatures of several of my former clients among the hundreds of other actors on the walls of fame.
It was cold out and French onion soup seemed the perfect antidote to the chill. I couldn’t help but think too of the times my husband and I, on varying occasions, served a French onion soup that left our guests gasping. The secret seemed to lie in the brandy we liberally ladled in as a substitute for the sherry. I forget who had given us the bottle, but we quickly ran out. When we went to get more, we realized why our soup was so good—the Courvoisier XO brandy we’d been generously gifted was very fine indeed and at $135 a bottle, it was rather the kind you’d sip and savor, instead of pouring into a soup.
A happy accident! And I’m not recommending you go nuts over your soup with such extravagance, but I do think you might use a more modestly priced brandy instead of the sherry suggested below. In any event, this recipe is sure to lead to many ovations, standing or otherwise.
Soupe à l’Oignon (French Onion Soup)
Adapted from Saveur magazine, Issue 107
SERVES 6
Ingredients:
1 cup white wine
1⁄2 cup plus 3 tbsp sherry
10 tbsp butter
1 tsp sugar
3 large yellow onions, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste
6 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
6 sprigs thyme
2 fresh bay leaves
2 qts Beef Stock
12 1⁄2"-thick slices baguette
2 cloves garlic, smashed
6 cups grated gruyère cheese
2 cups finely grated parmigiano-reggiano
SERVES 6
Ingredients:
1 cup white wine
1⁄2 cup plus 3 tbsp sherry
10 tbsp butter
1 tsp sugar
3 large yellow onions, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste
6 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
6 sprigs thyme
2 fresh bay leaves
2 qts Beef Stock
12 1⁄2"-thick slices baguette
2 cloves garlic, smashed
6 cups grated gruyère cheese
2 cups finely grated parmigiano-reggiano
Method:
1. Heat oven to 425°. Combine wine, 1⁄2 cup of the sherry, 8 tbsp. of the butter, sugar, onions, and salt and pepper in a 9" × 13" casserole dish and braise, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the onions just begin to brown, 40–45 minutes. Remove casserole from oven, cover with foil, and continue braising in oven, stirring occasionally, until caramelized, about 1 hour more. Keep the onions warm.
2. Meanwhile, tie parsley, thyme, and bay leaves together with kitchen twine to make a bouquet garni. Put bouquet garni and stock into a pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes. Remove and discard bouquet garni. Stir in remaining sherry and cook for 5 minutes more.
3. While the broth simmers, spread the baguette slices with the remaining butter. Toast in a skillet over medium heat, turning once, until golden, 5–7 minutes. Rub the slices generously with garlic and set aside. Discard any remaining garlic.
4. Heat broiler with rack 6" from element. Arrange 6 heatproof bowls on a foil-lined sheet tray, divide onions and broth between bowls, and stir together. Place 2 baguette slices in each bowl; top each with about 1 cup gruyère and about 1⁄3 cup parmigiano. Broil until cheeses are browned and bubbly, 3–5 minutes. Serve immediately.
1. Heat oven to 425°. Combine wine, 1⁄2 cup of the sherry, 8 tbsp. of the butter, sugar, onions, and salt and pepper in a 9" × 13" casserole dish and braise, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the onions just begin to brown, 40–45 minutes. Remove casserole from oven, cover with foil, and continue braising in oven, stirring occasionally, until caramelized, about 1 hour more. Keep the onions warm.
2. Meanwhile, tie parsley, thyme, and bay leaves together with kitchen twine to make a bouquet garni. Put bouquet garni and stock into a pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes. Remove and discard bouquet garni. Stir in remaining sherry and cook for 5 minutes more.
3. While the broth simmers, spread the baguette slices with the remaining butter. Toast in a skillet over medium heat, turning once, until golden, 5–7 minutes. Rub the slices generously with garlic and set aside. Discard any remaining garlic.
4. Heat broiler with rack 6" from element. Arrange 6 heatproof bowls on a foil-lined sheet tray, divide onions and broth between bowls, and stir together. Place 2 baguette slices in each bowl; top each with about 1 cup gruyère and about 1⁄3 cup parmigiano. Broil until cheeses are browned and bubbly, 3–5 minutes. Serve immediately.
Thanks to @chrislabas for the snaps!
