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Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Next Magazine Review - Harbour

290 Hudson St (btwn Spring/Dominick Sts)

Ahoy matey! In a rugged sea of choices when it comes to dining out in Manhattan, the water’s just fine at Harbour. Chef Partner Joe Isidori evenly balances his mainly seafood menu with invention and shrewd restraint. He’s also to be lauded for his blue initiative (yes, blue is the new green), purchasing only sustainable fish that isn’t overused or prematurely pulled from the ocean.

We set a course for adventure with a Bridgehampton ($14) house cocktail with Grey Goose, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, rose water and a fizzy splash of Veuve-Clicquot rosé. The Hamptons are further charmingly referenced with drinks such as the tempting Hampton Bay ($12) house Mai Tai with a coconut twist.

Having navigated the menu, Beau Soleil Oysters ($9) came out first with Meyer lemon and wonderful parsley foam! The whitefish Shima Aji Sashimi ($16) was a naughty little bite with green apple and a slightly fiery chili-sesame sauce. We absolutely loved the Clam Chowder ($9) with a creamy seafood velouté, which reminded us of a sherried bisque, with market vegetables and top neck clams. Lobster Salad ($19) featured a host of garden delights such as golden beets, radishes, pickled onions and a filigree of delicate baby greens dressed in lime vinaigrette. The laid-back Dr. Frank Dry Riesling ($13/glass) was an effervescent, fruity accompaniment.

Tilefish ($25) was a special of the night with yellow curry (on the side, thank you!), crispy garlic, shu mai, and lop chum (tasty pork and beef sausage). Soft Shell Crab ($20) was okay, but we loved the crisp, luscious Alma Rosa Chardonnay ($14) pairing. I just thought the crab needed more char, less batter--but I did enjoy the ribbons of celery root tangled up like a forkful of fettucine, the red and yellow pepper piperade with a refreshing burst of cilantro, and the soft poached egg for dipping. Our sides were Napa Cabbage & Bacon ($6) and Cauliflower Gratin ($6) with plumped raisins, which made good sense once we tasted it.

Sips of DRY Lavender Soda ($6) provided a final touch of sweet before we disembarked. Book passage at Harbour straight away!

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