BOOK/A TABLE - Botta's Pork Chops

When my husband and I were in Florence earlier this year, he discovered a...murder! Murder in Florence that is, by Marco Vichi. He loved the colorful mystery surrounding Florentine detective Inspector Bordelli and ending up reading the entire series.

Death and the Olive Grove is the first book and in it, Bordelli finds himself sweating through a gruesome case, but takes some time out to enjoy Botta’s simple dish of pork chops. The Botta in question here is a thief and counterfeiter (and recurring character) who became a great chef while learning the trade in various prisons all around the globe! 

Vichi includes the recipe for the chops in the acknowledgments and in a final twist, the truth is revealed: the dish came actually from his beloved father, who was a tremendous inspiration in the writer’s works. 

Buon appetito!

Botta’s Pork Chops

“Put [two bone-in] pork chops (preferably not too thick) in a frying pan with a bit of water and cook them well on both sides until the water has almost entirely evaporated. Add a cup of chopped tomatoes and turn the chops several times. Then add a cup of [whole] milk and a handful of fennel seeds, and when the sauce begins to boil, turn the heat down and leave uncovered to reduce the liquid until the sauce has reached the proper point of density. Then remove the pan from the burner, cover it and leave it in peace for a couple of minutes.” 

Finish with salt and serve!

Stick A Fork In It - Red Eye Gravy

Baby let some big pork chops liberally coated with applewood smoked salt sit over night in the refrigerator while I conspired to make my red eye gravy. The pork chops are made especially juicy by the simple brining process and the gravy gilds the lily! Wipe the salt off of your chops before stowing them under the broiler in the oven for six minutes each side, second to top rack. Then cover in foil and let rest for 10 minutes.

To the gravy! This was really fun and pretty much made up, based on the Southern tradition: we had homemade pork stock (chicken or turkey stock would work as well) on hand so after about five cups had been thawed, we heated it up, added a 1/2 pound of crumbled bacon (spicy ham is perhaps more common) that had been cooked in a separate pan and when no one was looking, we also added some of the bacon grease into the mix. Six tablespoons of flour were whisked in after that as well as two cups of still steaming coffee. Reduce for about 15 minutes and grind some fresh pepper into your brew and serve over your chops.

Creamy mashed potatoes and steamed asparagus with a simple buttermilk dressing courtesy of Jamie Oliver are ideal companions for this--and of course by all means make chocolate pudding topped with whipped cream for dessert.

Thanks to Recipe.com for the photo!

Apple and Sage Pork Chops

One afternoon while in the grocery store, I spied a packet of McCormick's Recipe Inspirations. Pre-measured spices are neatly assembled and a recipe for a dish utilizing them is on the back! Too tremendous! All you need are a few additional items, such as in the case of the Apple and Sage Pork Chops, well obviously the apples and pork, but also basic things such as flour, brown sugar and onions that you might already have around the house. I had some apricot wheat beer from the Ithaca Beer Co. and substituted that for the apple juice listed in the recipe below. It turned out to be a grand idea. With a salad of parsley, pancetta, buttermilk and lemon via tastingtable.com to start and Ciao Bella's blood orange sorbet to follow our perfect pork chops, there was a ribbon of summery fruit flavors that were evenly balanced with the savory suggestions to welcome the fall.

Apple and Sage Pork Chops
Makes 4 servings.
Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes
1 package McCormick Recipe Inspirations Apple and Sage Pork Chops
1 tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon salt
4 boneless pork chops, 1-inch thick (about 1 1/4 pounds)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
2 red apples, thinly sliced
1/2 cup apple juice
1 tablespoon brown sugar

Method
1. Mix flour, all of the Spices and salt in small bowl. Sprinkle both sides of pork chops with 1 tablespoon of the seasoned flour.
2. Heat oil in large skillet on medium-high heat. Add pork chops; brown on both sides. Remove from skillet. Add onion; cook and stir 3 minutes or until tender. Add apples; cook and stir 2 minutes.
3. Stir in juice, sugar and remaining seasoned flour until well mixed. Return pork chops to skillet. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer 5 minutes or until desired doneness.

Pork Chops, Blue Cheese and Butternut Squash Puree

A friend recently asked for a butternut squash soup recipe--I immediately thought of this butternut squash puree which is a perfect side to accompany Blue Cheese Vermouth Pork Chops courtesy of Saveur magazine. So it's not quite soup but I've made both these recipes for years and am happy to share them with you. Do enjoy! Wonderful for the fall!

Vermouth Pork Chops with Blue Cheese and Butternut Squash Puree
SERVES 4
For this recipe always use the best-quality corn-fed pork available, counseled Alan Hooker, founder of the Ranch House Restaurant in Ojai Valley, California.

FOR THE PURÉE:
1 2-lb. butternut squash, peeled,
seeded, and cubed
1 2" piece fresh ginger, quartered
lengthwise
2 tbsp. butter
1 tsp. Herb Salt
2 tsp. brown sugar
1 tbsp. sliced almonds

FOR THE SAUCE:
1 cup dry vermouth
1 3⁄4 cups heavy cream
3 oz. Danish blue cheese, crumbled
Freshly ground white pepper

8 8-oz. loin pork chops, 1" thick,
trimmed
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Salt

1. For the purée: Put squash and ginger in a pot, cover with water, bring to a boil over medium heat, and cook until soft, 30–35 minutes. Remove and discard ginger. Drain squash and mash to a coarse purée. Stir in butter, herb salt, and brown sugar. Cover and keep warm.

2. For the sauce: Bring vermouth to a boil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Boil until reduced by half, about 7 minutes. Add cream and return to a boil. Reduce sauce by one-third, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat, whisk in cheese, and season with pepper. Cover and keep warm.

3. Place an oiled grill pan over medium-high heat. Brush chops with oil and season liberally with salt and pepper. Grill until just cooked through, about 8 minutes per side. To serve, divide sauce among four plates. Put chops on top of sauce. Serve with a dollop of squash on the side, sprinkled with almonds.

This article was first published in Saveur in Issue #26