County
34 E 20th St
New York, NY
10003
Btwn Broadway/Park Ave
212-677-7771
Quick Eats: Manhattan with Bulleit bourbon; cauliflower soup; roasted chicken; bread pudding.
Living in the far side of Manhattan’s
Chelsea (or the West Chelsea Corridor, as some call it), I often feel when I go
to more centralized locations that I’m going "into town." And recently, I went
into County, situated in the Flatiron District. The marvelous set-up configured
warm, repurposed wood from upstate New York
on the walls and ceiling to set a comforting tone surrounding the garrulous,
mostly young crowd.
I was as cold as a well-digger’s nether regions when I
entered but a Manhattan, straight
up with Bulleit bourbon and garnished with a brandied cherry remedied that
effectively, as delivered by our sweetheart waitress, Hannah. My dining
companion opted for another region, the Vodka East Side, just like candy while still packing a
punch. Mint and cucumber made a great combo and anticipated spring—this is also
available with a dose of devilish absinthe, to be knocked back at your own risk!
Charred edamame (with a glaze more spicy than sweet) was
indeed too spicy for me but I warmed up to a warming, delicious cup of
cauliflower soup, which was just the ticket for the evening, with roasted
walnuts, a swirl of chili oil and cubes of slightly pungent raclette cheese.
Creamy ricotta cheese with grilled country bread was great, served with a honey
drizzle, mint and an admonishing bite from red chilis.
What then after soup? Why, salads of course, for our next
course! Kale arrived, dressed with a very fragrant garlic-lemon vinaigrette,
nostril-tickling grana padano cheese and minute brioche croutons. More salad
featuring julienne green apples, bibb lettuce and spiced walnuts in a Parmesan
vinaigrette was also a delight.
Al dente cavatelli became our pasta course, so hearty and
filling, outfitted with tasty nubbins of pork in the ragu, braised kale, a
button of ricotta, a peck of Pecorino and a springy step of lemon.
I tend to avoid chicken at restaurants and veer toward the
more adventurous, but the roasted chicken clucked at us and was just ducky (you
may imagine a sly wink emoticon here if you wish), part roasted and part fried
to crispy golden brown perfection. Accompanied by a fiery side of collard
greens and delectable, dreamy, cloud-like mashed potatoes. Short ribs were
certainly big chunks of meat, delicately balanced by a salad with refreshing
mint and sensually pink supremed grapefruit. A side of Brussels sprouts in a
creamy vinaigrette rounded out the meal.
We flipped over the heavenly bourbon bread pudding draped
with buttery caramel and devoured it hastily. I’m not sure which county
County refers to but we want to be
part of that district!
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